South East Asia

    Sun, 07 Jul 2002 04:31:55
Hello,

I got to Hong Kong without any problems, but wow, this is a really big airport. It was nice to see the Air Canada sign after walking and taking a train and more walking. I got an aisle seat at the bulkhead so I will have lots of room and will be able to get up every few hours to stretch.

My flight is a little bit delayed 8:00pm rather than 6:40pm, but hopefully we will catch up. I was able to check my luggage all the way to Vancouver from Bangkok which is nice. I have to go through customs in Vancouver which is good since it means I don't have to go through customs when I get to Toronto and will be so close to home and it will be soooooo nice to be picked up at the airport., thank you :) fyi, my flight is AC008

So I am sitting in an Internet cafe and it is free and also really fast! (How strange). I am really excited to be on my way home now. I just have to spend 4 hours here, but I don't think it will be too hard. The 18 hours travelling will not be fun, but I have been on longer journeys.

See you soon,
Love Jenny

    Sat, 06 Jul 2002 21:11:19
Hello,

I am just having some breakfast with David and Aew and then I will be leaving for the Bangkok Airport. I have a few hours stop-over in Hong Kong and then I will be on the flight home. I am not looking forward to the long flight, but I have been on some long journeys this trip so I should be fairly used to it by now.

It feels very strange, but I am also really excited about coming home.

See you soon,
Love Jenny

    Fri, 05 Jul 2002 03:28:26
Hello,

I am in Bangkok now with David and Aew. I had a really relaxing time on Koh
Samui and Koh Tau islands. Did lots of Diving and met up with a few
Canadians to celebrate Canada Day. I am really glad I decided to finish my
trip on the beach.

It feels so strange to think that I will be home in just a few days. :)
It really does not feel like I have been gone away for 6 months.

I called to confirm my flight and I arrive at 1:11am, early in the morning
of July 8th. I am going to fly to Hong Kong the morning before my flight to
TO.

I just discovered that Wimbledon is on, it will be interesting to see the
Williams sisters play in the womans final. I am sure that you will be
watching it to. Mum, when do you leave for England? Or are you there
already?

I can't wait to be home, I have missed you all so much

See you soon
Love Jenny

    Sat, 29 Jun 2002 07:40:38

Hello everyone,

This will probably be the last email that I send from Asia since I will be flying out of here on July 7th. I know that I told some of you that I would be coming home in August, but I was unable to change my original flight and I actually I feel like I am getting ready to come home, especially after China. I probably will not start work right away since I want to spend a few weeks in Toronto to get over the culture shock of Canada :) It is going to be so strange getting used to things like: flat sidewalks, English street signs, western toilets, knives+forks, and seat belts. I apologize in advance for my wonderful Asian eating habits, I will try to eat nicely when with company :)

Last time I wrote I had just crossed the border into China: what a difference from Vietnam. There is just so much more time and money spent on things like roads and bridges and keeping the streets clean. I also noticed that people didn't seem to smile as much as the rest of South East Asia where people were super-friendly. I later realized that many Chinese are just as friendly, they just don't show it when you first meet. Same as in many countries, some people see you as a walking dollar sign while others will go out of their way to help you.

What I saw in China was amazing, but you will probably be more surprised by what I have not seen in China. It is such a big country that I didn’t get a chance to see many of the main sights such as: The Great Wall, The Terracotta Warriors, The Forbidden City, and Shanghai. I have focused instead on the South-Western rural areas and Tibet and have just loved it.

I took an overnight train from the border to the provincial capital of Kunming. It was a big, clean city and I enjoyed biking around for the day and purposefully getting lost. There were a few nice old streets, but unfortunately Kunming is tearing down a lot of the old streets and houses for progress! What a shame that they aren't trying to keep some.

Then I bused my way on to Dali and spent a few days just chilling out and relaxing in the cool backpacker town. I got a group of 10 people together and we went for a special all-you-can-eat Tibetan dinner at a nearby restaurant (only 20Yuan=4CDN each). The food was excellent and there was so much choice of over 20 dishes. The next day 6 of us stayed together and signed up for a special tour of the local area. I was so glad that I did that, since I was able to see some of the local communities that I would not have been able to see otherwise. Our guide was excellent and told us lots about the local people, the communist party and other interesting facts. We visited a local market and I bought some "antique" shoes worn by women whose feet were bound at birth. (a strange symbol of oppression.) After the market we went for a hike out in the countryside and we saw women in the rice fields dressed in local traditional costume and they were so sweet. We stopped for lunch at the next village for some more great food and were invited to a funeral in the courtyard of a nearby house. We were surprised that everyone was celebrating and offering us cookies, candy and tea. Our guide told us that it was customary in this region to celebrate the continuation to the next life. The next day I went to visit two Canadians that I had met at a monastery where you can learn Kung Fu and Tai Chi. It was fun to watch them practice, and it was a great peaceful place to catch up on my journal.

Then a bus to Lijiang which is another great town for backpackers. I was working to get a group together to go hike along the Tiger Leaping Gorge, but it took a few days before all the people I was with were all healthy enough. It is strange how many more travelers have been sick in China in comparison with the rest of South East Asia. After a few days of Lijiang, wandering the o ld alleyways and streets and doing some shopping, we were all set to go. Two Americans, a Dutch guy and me. We decided to hike the Gorge in 4 days (even though most people do it in 2). The gorge is really beautiful, with a powerful river at the bottom and steep cliffs rising 2km vertically on both sides. On our second day we hiked down from the main road to the river and it was even more powerful up close than we had imagined. Then we climbed back up to Sean's guesthouse for lunch. After lunch we tried to find the path from Sean's to the Halfway guesthouse. I don't think we ever found it, we did find some nice goat paths and at one point just hacked our way across the slope. We walked up over 1km vertically and I don't know how many kilometers horizontally. We were walking along for hours, and by 6pm I started to get worried since we still did not know how far we were from the Halfway guesthouse. Then at 7pm we came across a big deep ravine with a waterfall through it and could not see how to get across. Also there was a landslide through the path on the other side so we didn't even want to try. We had to hike all the way back down to the road following more goat paths in the near-dark and finally made it to Tina's guest house 5 hours after leaving Sean’s (it is only a 45minute walk along the road :) I don't regret any of it since it was great to see a part of the Gorge most people never see. The rest of the walk wasn't as eventful since the path was well marked. There were beautiful small waterfalls along the way, and at the end a lovely cedar forest.

Once we got back to Lijiang, I had to decide where I wanted to go next. There was an interesting route to visit Tibetan people along the border of Tibet (they are supposedly more “Tibetan” than the people living in Tibet), or I could go straight up to Chengdu. I decided to head straight to Chengdu since I was planning on going to Tibet and I really didn't have the time for the slow route.

In Chengdu a few of us went to go visit the Pandas in the Panda reserve just outside of town. The pandas were really cute, just like big teddy bears. The young ones were especially playful, and I had fun sketching them (even though it was difficult since they wouldn't stay still). The Chinese were really amazed at my sketching and many of them took photos of me drawing the sketches. How strange is that?

I decided to fly to Lhasa, Tibet from Chengdu. The only way to visit Tibet is buying a package, so I bought a package which included transfer to the airport, Permit and flight. When the bus from the airport entered Lhasa and I saw the Potala Palace up on its hill for the first time I was really blown away. I have seen the Dali Lama’s Palace many times in photos, on TV, and in movies, but nothing compares to actually seeing it with your own eyes. It sits on its own hill right in the middle of town, and it is surprising how suddenly you come across it.

When I got off the bus in Lhasa, I was met by a guy with my name on a piece of paper. He represented Tibet Tourism and told me that the travel agency had not bought a permit for me and they must have just pocketed the money. I had to sit in the PSB office and tell them all I knew about the travel agency. They said that many travelers got scammed this way, and I was really glad that they didn't make me pay for another permit. It actually worked out best for me since the package was much cheaper than the legal way, but I didn't enjoy sitting in the office. Luckily another traveler who spoke Chinese and English came with me and helped sort things out.

The rest of the day I spent wandering around Lhasa and just spent some time acclimatizing. I walked around Jokhang Temple and saw so many Tibetans dressed in local costumes. There were also many dressed in modern clothes, and the mix was really interesting. I sat in a restaurant above the street and just loved watching t he old Pilgrims walking and spinning their prayer wheels. I later realized that I had walked around the temple the wrong way. There is a pilgrim path (called a Kora) around every religious building and you are supposed to walk around clockwise. So from then on I always walked the correct way.

The next day I climbed up to the Potala Palce (a lot of effort at that altitude). Visiting the Palace was interesting, but it is so sad that it is so dark and unlived-in since the Dali Lama is still living in Nepal. There were lots of relics, Buddha images and murals, but they all start to look the same after a while.

I visited some beautiful monasteries over the next two days and enjoyed watching the pilgrims as they also visited the pilgrimage sites. I was able to see the monks at Drepung monastery at their lunchtime gathering and to hear them chanting. I also did some sketches and it was nice to have a subject that didn’t move much. Everywhere I went I was offered this horrible yak butter tea which tastes horrible and is very greasy. I am very glad that I don’t have to live a monk’s life. Ganden monastery had a really long Kora twisting around the mountainside and it was a great walk (even though it was too cloudy for a good view). The other people walking offered us: dried yak meat, yak cheese, cookies and candies. We accepted the candies, but declined the yak products :).

I also spent some time in Lhasa, doing some shopping and watching people go past. At one point I bought some cookies and fruit roll-ups. When the woman held up two fingers I handed her 2 Yuan and was very pleasantly surprised when she gave me 1.8 in change. She could have so easily just taken the 2 Yuan and I would never have known. It is moments like this, which help you believe in people again after so many people have been trying to squeeze as much money out of you as possible.

I found a group of travelers who wanted to go to Everest Base Camp (EBC) at the same time as I did, and over the same number of days. There were five of us and it was a very international group (a Dane, a Norweigan, an American, a Chinese and me). We hired a land cruiser and driver to take us for 8 days to EBC and back. We saw some monasteries and forts on the way, but the highlight of the trip was definitely the scenery. Beautiful mountains reflected in lakes with Yaks and sheep and goats dotting the hillsides. The driver only had one English tape, so I bought a couple more in Shigatse. By the end of the 8 days we really knew all the songs well and were singing along (even with Brittany Spears, but don’t tell anyone:)

When we got to Everest (called Qomolangma by the Tibetans), we stayed at Rongphu Monastery Guesthouse and were lucky to have a great view of Everest when we arrived with very few clouds. There was a big Yak in the courtyard of the guesthouse and when I got near to take a picture it hopped towards me and snorted, scaring the living daylights out of me. All the Tibetans nearby laughed at me and were even laughing later each time they saw me. The next day we woke up to snow and I was glad I had bought a down jacket. We hiked up to base camp in the morning. It was quite a difficult walk at that altitude 5400m. I felt tired, but otherwise ok. Base camp itself is nothing much to see, but we hiked up further and sat and waited for the clouds to clear so we could see Everest. It was amazing how hot and sunny it was, especially compared to the snow and clouds in the morning. We had decided to head down at 4pm, no matter what, but just before our time ran out the sky cleared and we had another great view of the tallest mountain (8848m). On the way back down we were hit by a hail storm and had to cover our faces with our scarves. It didn't last long, and we were glad when it was over. The path back down seemed a lot longer than the way up, even though it took us less time we were all really tired and feeling the altitude. It was great to get back down to Rongphu and sit in the smoky restaurant and have dinner and play cards.

On the way back to Lhasa we had some car trouble. We had one flat tire, then fixed it at the next town. The next day the tire broke again and we fixed it. Then the brakes on a tire went, plus another flat. The driver tried to fix the brakes but couldn't. We still had three good brakes, but we didn't feel very happy on the mountain roads. But then the tire went flat again and we were stuck without a spare. Our driver started trying to patch the tires, but was not successful. A truck came by and helped us, but after fixing the tire we only got 1-2km before it was flat again. Then another truck stopped to help and there were over 10 people trying to fix the tire. They finally managed to patch the existing patches and we were on our way again, crossing our fingers to see how far we could get. We finally arrived in Nangartse after dark at 10:00pm and were very glad to be safe in a town.

The next day three of us hired another land cruiser and driver to take us to Nam Tso lake which is just a few hours North of Lhasa. We went for some great walks up the cliffs on the peninsula in the lake. The views again were spectacular (am I repeating myself :) with the snow covered mountains ringing the lake. We stayed in tents that were setup at the edge of the mini-town. They were quite comfortable, but not very warm. In the middle of the night I heard a strange noise. I thought it was Heidi (my roommate), but when I turned on my torch (oops sorry: flashlight) we saw a goat in our tent. We jumped up and ushered the goat out of the tent and put a heavy water thermos on the tent flap. The night was quite cold, but as long as I didn’t move to a cold spot in the bed then I was fine. The next morning, when I woke up I was surprised to find another goat in the tent (actually it was probably the same one). We chased it out and then noticed all the droppings on the floor; the goat must have been in our tent for hours to produce so much poo! Then we drove back to Lhasa and had one more day of visiting the market and temple square before heading back to Chengdu.

Three of us continued north to Songpan and signed up for a 4-day horse trek to “Ice Mountain”. At first I felt very unstable on the horse, but by the end of the trip it felt much more normal. At some points we got off the horses and walked, especially on the steep downward parts where I was very glad to be on my own two feet. The path in some places was really steep and I was so glad that my horse didn’t fall, but then these horses have done this trip so often they know what they are doing. We didn’t guide our horses much; they just followed the path and the verbal commands of our guides. The horses were competitive, and were always trying to get into the first spot in line. They were even biting at each other and cutting in front of each other when they tried to overtake. Camping was a lot of fun; the guides setup the tents and cooked the food for us. Unfortunately they only had a few ingredients for cooking with (flour, sugar, potatoes, cabbage, and spices). They were able to make a surprising number of dishes from this including some nice baked bread. The tents were fine, but there was no floor so the guides spread out some pine or cedar boughs each night and we slept on those, plus the Tibetan coats and sleeping bags that they brought along for us. It was a good trip, but I was glad when it was over and I could get back and shower.

Then I spent a whole day on buses getting to Chongqing, which was a horrible city with too many people, all trying to sell me stuff. The taxi driver took me to 4 places before we got to the location that I asked for since he wanted me to stay at one of the hotels that give out commissions. I got very frustrated trying to buy a boat ticket and finding a hotel. I finally found a hotel that wasn’t too expensive and just woke up early the next morning to get a ticket. I bought the ticket for the boat to Yichang, but didn’t realize that the boat did not stop at the “Three Little Gorges” like all the other tourist boats do. I was the only foreigner on board and had no one to talk to for 2 days so I spent a lot of time reading and watching the big three gorges go by. The weather was also bad since the pollution haze was really thick. The dam was big, but not really worth seeing. I found the large locks that our boat went through more interesting. I must say, I was very glad to be off the boat when we got to Yichang. The next morning I took a bus to Wuhan. A really nice student on the bus chatted with me. When we got to Wuhan he came with me to help me find a hotel and to book my flight to Bangkok. It would have been so much harder without his help. I offered to buy him lunch, but all he would order was a coke. Again, another really nice person to offset all the money-grabbers. My last few days in China were a bit disappointing, so I am just going to try to remember the South-West areas and Tibet and all the people and places I saw there.

The next day was spent flying. When I got to Bangkok, I immediately looked into flights to Ko Samui and found that one left in 30 minutes. I quickly bought a ticket and sorted out some luggage to leave at the airport (since I didn’t think I would need my down-filled coat, prayer flags or other souvenirs). It was so strange to get to this tropical Thailand Island, everything was just so different from China. I really experienced some major culture shock. Everything was so easy again. I could order food, sleep in a bungalow on the beach, watch English TV, do whatever I wanted, and not have to worry about getting bus tickets or finding my way around a strange city.I spent two nights on Ko Samui just relaxing, eating good food again, getting a massage, doing my yoga, and just chilling out. It was so weird to be sitting on the beach drinking a margarita when I compared it to being on the boat to Wuhan in China.

This morning I took a ferry to Ko Tau and I have signed up to do some scuba diving over the next few days before I return. After that I go to Bangkok, Hong Kong and then TO.

The flight home will be long, but I am used to long trips by now. It will be really strange for me to come back to Canada, but now I am really looking forward to being home and seeing everyone again whom I have missed so much. I am also looking forward to familiar places, a good cup of tea, being able to choose what I wear from my whole closet!

If you have read all these emails, then I am really impressed. I can't wait to share my photos with you when I get back (I just have to get them developed and sort them all first)

Take Care,See you soon;
Jen

    Sat, 29 Jun 2002 06:04:31
Hello,

I will definately try out those yoga studios when I get back. The workshops would probably be a good idea Location is probably the most important thing since if it is convenient, I will be more likely to continue going.

Have a great Canada day, I will be thinking of you all.

I just arrived on Ko Tau island and will be doing some scuba diving over the next few days. We aregoing to start tomorrow with a couple of easy shallow dives and then more dives after that. Ko Tau is a nice sleeply island and it is a nice change from Ko Samui which was a bit built-up and commercial. Thought there are a lot of internet cafes and mexican/italian/chinese restaurants here too.

Then I will probably fly back to Bangkok on the 4th, spend the 5th with David, fly to HK on the 6th and then fly home on the 7th.

I leave at 6pm on the 7th and I think I arrive 19 hours later (the flight back is faster than the flight here) which would be 1pm HongKong time on the 8th which would make it 1am Toronto time on the morning of the 8th. I will reconfirm when I get back to Bangkok.

See you in just over a week,
Love Jenny

    Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:53:01
Hello,

I am on Ko Samui island now. When I got to Bangkok I looked into flights and there was one leaving in 40 minutes so I quickly bought a ticket and got on the plane. It cost a bit more that it would have if I had gone through a travel agent, but I realy wanted as much beach time as possible. I left some of my stuff at the "left luggage" counter at the airport.

I am even experiencing some culture shock being surrounded by travellers again and everything is in English and is so easy. I just watched a movie and it was in English and I was sitting at a beach-side restaurant with the sound of the waves in the background. What a change from China.

After the river cruise I am now actually very ready to come home. i don't know if that is because my mind is subconsiously preparing itself or if I would have been ready to come home anyway. Either way I am so looking forward to being home and seeing you again.

Brian, Thank you so much for coming to pick me up at the airport, especially since it is so late at night, but it will be so good to see your smiling face. Every time I arrive somewhere and see all the people waiting for their friends and family I miss you all even more.

It doesn't really feel like six months. Sometimes it feels like forever and sometimes it feels like I just left.

I think I will spend two nights here and then head to another island. probably Ko Tau where I hear there is great diving. I have been on the road for so long that all of my clothes are really dirty and smelly. I just gave them all to the guesthouse

I have a small bungalow on the beach, but they said I could move to a nicer and bigger one tomorrow if one frees up.

I feel really tired, but I am going to try to stay up late tonight to get used to the lifestyle here.

Do you think I should get a wedding present for David and Aew? I can't think what to get them that they can't already buy here on their own.

Please give James and his new wife a big hug for me.

Love you lots and can't wait to see you.
Your Jenny

p.s. Last time i weighed myself the scale said 69 kilos.

    Wed, 26 Jun 2002 05:42:16
Hello,

I am in Wuhan now. The horse trek from Songpan was really interesting, but our weather wasn't great. By the end I actually felt stable on the horse and my legs and ass did not hurt as much as I expected. We also walked a few bits, especially the downhill ones which are too hard for the horses with us on their backs. It was JJ's birthday so we put a candle on a wedge of bread and presented it to him.

I did the boat cruise down the Yangtzee and I have to say that I was disappointed. The weather was really foggy (ok polluted) and there was nothing really to eat on the boat for two days. We didn't even stop at any of the towns along the way.

I took a bus from Yichang to Wuhan this morning and I have a flight for tomorrow to Guanghzou (near HongKong) and then another flight to Bangkok. I am looking forward to a nice early night tonight and some sleep.

I think I will head straight down to the islands tomorrow if I can, if not I will stay at David's (if that is ok with him and Aew) and then go the next day.

Hope you are all doing well
Talk to you soon
Love Jenny

    Tue, 18 Jun 2002 07:31:36
Hello,

Just a quick note to let you know that I will not have access to the Internet for at least 4 days.I am in Songpan now and JJ, Heidi and I are going on a 4-day horse trek starting tomorrow morning. we are heading to ice mountain and stopping in villages along the way and sleeping in tents. I am looking forward to it, but I know my legs are going to be SORE.

Talk to you soon
Lots of love
Jenny

    Sun, 16 Jun 2002 07:39:58

Thank you for booking my doctors appointments. Glad you could find the number of the travel doctor. I have my health card with me. I will email Nicole too, I wonder if she is back from Portugal yet.

Could you send me the following addresses: Chris and Gill David and Carolyn Rommie Grandpa

Wow, I am surprised that the package got there so quick. It must be the package I sent from China. The one from Vietnam must still be on its way. I really wanted to get those shoes. They are the shoes used by the women with bound/broken feet before that archaic practice became illegal. I think they are an interesting symbol of how oppressed women in China were. Now I see women working road construction along with the men and there seems to be much more equality. There are some software CDs in the package including Windows2000 professional in case you are interested. But I have no idea how good the CD is.

Did you want to get the film developed or do you want to wait until I get home? They are every second roll from Vietnam and Yunnan and Sichuan provinces. I selected every second roll so that if either pile was lost or damaged then at least I would not lose all the photos from a country. I was going to contact a few good photo developing shops when I got back to negotiate a special price for all my films. I don't really trust the grocery store places after hearing that sometimes the machines break down and they just have to yank out the negatives which are in the machine and ruin them. Also they don't look at each print individually. I will pay for all development when I get home.

The lake was really beautiful because it was surrounded by 5000m snow covered mountains in almost all directions. We stayed in tents on a peninsula and there were some amazing cliffs that we climbed and had great views. It was really cold the first night, but we were given lots of blankets and were ok. Except on the first night we woke up to find a goat inside the tent. We kicked it out and put a rock on the door flap and then woke up in the morning to find the goat inside again and a large pile of droppings so it must have been there a while.

David has booked a flight from Bangkok to Hong Kong on July 6th. I wanted at least one day to recover from the first flight before taking the second.

So my plans now are:
17 Fly to Chengdu
18 Bus to Songpan
19 - 22 Horse Trekking near Songpan
23 Bus to Chengdu and then bus to Chong Qing
24,25 Yangtzee cruise
26 Fly from Wuhan to Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur
27 - 4 Beach or Scuba trip (Ko Tau or Phuket)
5 Bangkok
6 Fly to Hong Kong
7 Fly home

My flight arrives at 1:11 AM on July 8th. I know it is a horrible time, but I would love to be picked up.

I am looking forward to some relaxing beach time and to do some scuba diving again, I might even skip the Yangtzee cruise, but I can decide that after horse trekking. JJ and Heidi are also doing the horse trekking and I am glad we will be staying together a bit longer.

Lots of loveYour glad-to-be-coming-home
Jenny

    Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:26:00

Hello,

It was great talking with you. Sorry for calling collect, but it is nice to talk for more than 3 minutes. I will pay you back when I get home.

Thanks for the photo of the sea horse! I was wondering why my inbox was suddenly full :) Actually I am quite impressed, I didn't think it would be possible to keep sea horses in a tank.


>Wonderful to hear you, Jen, a really good line wasn't it? I guess we are
>all anxious to have you
>home again, I am sure it will all work out what you do the rest of the
>summer, see Jean's new baby,
>go fishing, play tennis etc.

I think it will be really nice to relax in TO for a bit and do some stuff. It is going to take me weeks just to get through all my photos (I am now on roll 53)

>I think you are probably wrong thinking IBM do not want you back they
>have probably just got rid of arms and legs. both Helen and Joanne are
>looking for a job now,
>Joanne's company is moving downtown and she does not want to go there.
>Helen was laid off a while
>ago with a package.

They probably do want me back, but I did email my manager when I was thinking of August, just to let him know and he seemed fine with me postponing my return. I will just have to see what happens. I am not worried about it.

Heidi (Denmark), JJ (US), Hayden(US), Daimen (France) and I are going up to Nam Tso lake tomorrow morning and spending two nights there. I have to go and pack all my warm clothes. I bought a down jacket in China and I also got some gloves today. They will be really things to have on the beach :)

I have booked a flight from Lhasa to Chengdu on the 17th with Heidi and JJ and then we are going horse trekking near Songpan. After that I am going to do the Yangtsee cruise and see the three gorges before they are dammed. It will be interesting to see the largest hydro-electric dam ever conceived, even thought it will still be under construction. Then I will get a flight down to Kuala Lumpur or Singapore and then work my way up to Bangkok, spend two nights there and then one night in HK before coming home(I want to break up the flights as much as possible, and to give myself lots of time to get to HK).

I am going to send another big email out soon. Probably from Chengdu.

Take Care and I will talk to you again when I get back from Nam Tso.

Lots of Love
Your-soon-to-be-coming-home Jenny